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ballestas por encima de los ejes

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(@eliminado-51)
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me gusta lo de las gemelas lo que pasa que me da pena hacerle cosas
si fuera mas moderno como el de majapapas mejorarle las cotas mereceria la
pena aver si voi al taller y puedo descapotarlo pal verano cuanto me cobraran?



   
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 LUIX
(@LUIX)
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Como pases de 30 se te caen los dientes al suelo :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: y las bolillas de los ojos se te descompensan 😯 🙄 😯

JAJAJA.... Gracias, Rycky! Me he reído un buen rato con tu descripción 😀 😀

La verdad es que debe ser una pasada ese tipo de gomas. Pero nunca me lo plantearía. Me gustan mis dientes y ojos en su sitio.

Como alternativa, qué os parecen éstas?:

Son similares a las que lleva el Pegaso, no? Y las tienen en 750x16...



   
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(@Baja-54)
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Y ¿como andan de precio? porque tienen buena pinta ¿que marca son? . Me alegro que te haya gustado el comentario, de vez en cuando me gusta dar un poco risa al asunto , tambien hay que tener tiempo para reir un poco ¿no crees ? 😆 😆



   
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 LUIX
(@LUIX)
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Son las INSA Turbo, modelo "Sahara", de fabricación nacional. El precio, no sé...

Y, volviendo al tema inicial del hilo, llevo bastante tiempo buscando un artículo que escribió alguien sobre el tema de las ballestas sobre el eje, pero creo que ya no está en Internet. Afortunadamente, he encontrado una copia en mi disco duro, asíque ahí va:



   
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 LUIX
(@LUIX)
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[FONT color="#990000"]Lifting the entire body:

Lifting the entire body allows for larger tyres, better approach
and departure angles, deeper wading and gets everything except the
axles higher for additional ground clearance Negatives include decreased
tip over angle, possible changes to the steering geometry, steeper
angles on prop shafts and prop shaft to frame clearance issues.
The Land Rover body can be raised in any combination of several
ways.

Many Land Rovers can be lifted a few inches just by replacing tired
leaf springs with new ones.

Parabolic leaf springs used in the late 1980s and early 1990s Santana
built Rovers provide greater lift than the stock LR leaf springs.
Also new design parabolic springs have become available.

Stock Land Rover springs can be rearced to make them taller. The
affect on ride and stability will differ by the condition of the
springs and how much they are arched.

Land Rover extended shackles, used in the 109 one ton and most
military spec 109 Land Rovers are 2 inches longer than stock civilian
shackles. They are used from the factory in conjunction with extended
welded on front spring mounts that are two inches longer than the
standard civilian type.

If you use the extended shackles in conjunction with standard civilian
front spring mounts you will get about one inch in lift. This may
be all you need to fit narrow 34 inch tyres. The front steering
geometry will be a little off because the front diff will be tilted
slightly downwards affecting the kingpin angle. Also the front prop
shaft connection will be at a steeper angle. This can be corrected
by ether adding a 1/4 inch high wedge between the leaf springs and
the axle housing to tilt the diff back up, or by reworking the civilian
front springs mounts so they are two inches longer. Reworking the
front spring mounts have the added advantage of increasing the lift
another inch for a total of approximately 2 inches of lift.

A lift of about seven inches can be obtained by mounting the leaf
springs over the axle housings. Spacer blocks can be placed between
the springs and axle housing for even additional lift. If you want
to pursue this kind of radical lift you should consider working
with a 4X4 shop that is experienced in doing radical lifts for other
street driven 4X4s.

[IMG src="LR.images/springover.jpeg" alt="A Land Rover Spring over modification" width=281 height=216 border=0 align=bottom vspace="7" hspace="10"]

This illustration shows a leaf over modification. The spring
pack was built up with fewer leaves to allow for increased articulation.
Tubes were welded to the axle housing and bolts are used to attach
the spring plate to the housing instead of 'U' bolts.

Several things need to be considered when you lift the body
in relation to the axles
:

1. You raise the centre of gravity. This means the car will
roll at smaller side tilts. If you raise the body more than a couple
of inches I strongly suggest that a roll cage be considered.

2. You increase the angle on the short front drive shaft.
If the 'U' joint knuckles solidly contact the yolk during articulation
the joint tends to break. Radical lifts can be countered by adding
wedges between the leaf spring and the axle housing. Unfortunately
this has the effect of changing the vertical link steering geometry
and making the steering less stable. A way around this is to cut
off the mounting flanges at the outside if the front axles, rotate
the steering balls and flange back to where the steering vertical
link belongs the reweld the flanges into place.

The increased drive shaft angularity can quickly become an issue
with the short 88 rear prop shaft as well. The 109 shaft is long
enough that this seldom becomes an issue.

3. Prop shaft length. A prop shaft has two parts that slide
in relation to one another as the suspension moves up and down.
One end of the prop shaft has a set of male splines at the end.
The yolk end piece has a set of female splines. If the splines were
to bottom out when the suspension compresses then the transfer case
tends to break. If the splines come apart during extreme downward
articulation then the prop shaft rotates free under the car &
can provide a short pole vault.

Small body lifts can can affect the length between the transfer
case and front diff enough to cause the front prop shaft to separate
under extreme downward front articulation.

Prop shafts can be modified for increased articulation or slight
body lifts by going to a longer yolk and spline. Rover used a stock
off the shelf Spicer yolk and spline assembly. There are two sizes
of Spicer yolk and splines available for the diameter of shaft that
Rover uses. Rover used the shorter of the two lengths. You can take
your stock prop shaft to a company that works on prop shafts and
have the longer yolk and spline installed. This is needed if you
have increased articulation and will cover small lifts. If you are
lifting the car more than two inches or so the prop shafts may also
need to be lengthened.

4. Clearance between the front prop shaft and the cross
member that goes under the bell housing will decrease as the lift
increases. Also anything that increases downward articulation will
decrease this clearance. The cure is to make the same modification
that is seen in many military Land Rover frames.

This is a diagonal clearance grove in the front of the cross member
under the front prop shaft. This can be done in a number of ways.
In my Land Rover this was accomplished by cutting out a half circle
in the top vertical side of the cross member and hammering the top
down to meet the new edge. The new edge was then welded.

5. The rear prop shaft of a 109 goes through a hole in a
cross member. If a spring over or taller lift is made in a 109,
this hole has to be relocated downwards to maintain clearance during
articulation.

6. Shocks will need to be replaced with longer ones. Shocks
tend to limit downward articulation at all four corners of a series
Land Rover and it does not take much lift before the extended shock
length will not reach the mounts on level ground.

[IMG src="LR.images/frontExtended.jpg" width="360" height="236" border="0" vspace="7" hspace="10" alt="custom front shock mounts"]
Modified front shock mount welded to top of original mount. This
allows movement for much greater articulation.

If your leaf springs have normal or better articulation, any length
shock you use will limit articulation unless you fabricate shock
mounts with a longer than stock distance between the upper and lower
mounts. You can not just go to a longer shock for increased downward
articulation and ignore the increased compressed length if the Rover
is used under rough conditions.

Maximum articulation occurs when one side is compressed with the
weight of the car and the other side is hanging off the ground.
When you make changes to the suspension you should remove your shocks
and drive one wheel up a ramp high enough to lift the other side
off the ground.

The length between your upper and lower shock mounts on the hanging
side is your maximum static downward articulation. The length measured
on the ramp side is your maximum static compressed articulation.
Ideally your shock should be able to extend at least a half inch
longer than your static maximum articulation and compress at least
a half inch shorter than your maximum compressed articulation. If
your leaf springs have good movement between leaves or if you are
using parabolic springs chances are that the distance between your
upper and lower shock mounts will be too short to allow shocks that
will handle the springs full articulation. If you want shocks that
allow full articulation from one extreme to the other you will need
to fabricate new mounts.

The rear diff is very heavy. The factory protected the rear shock
in two ways. The length of the rubber stop for max compression and
the check straps to limit max extension before the shock reached
full extension. You can vary the length of either to protect a shock
that is not long enough for full rear spring articulation. Or you
can fabricate new mounts to allow a longer shock to be used.

Like I said at the beginning, everything is a trade off. Rover
made a number of compromises when designing the suspension for your
Land Rover. I suspect the short shocks were more of a cost vs. Performance
compromise. You can not change one thing in the suspension and body
height without having it affect other things. One change will often
require a number of other changes to bring everything back into
acceptable specs. Be careful...be aware..be safe.

© 1997, 2001 TeriAnn Wakeman. All rights reserved.



   
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(@eliminado-51)
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yo ya casi no tengo dientes si pruevo esos neumaticos se me cae asta la boina
gracias luix saludos 😛 😛 😛 😛



   
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(@Majapapas)
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Vamos a ver las gemelas miden cada una 21.5 cm y las cuñas dos centimetros pora la parte mas ancha y 0.5cm por la parte mas pequeña, asi enfrentan los cardanes perfectamente, ganas en altura unos 10cm, y colocando las insa turbo sahara 7-50-16 tengo una distancia libre de chasis al suelo de 45cm desde el suelo hasta donde hace una U el chasis y 65cm hasta la caja, osea hasta donde empieza la carroceria, puede parecer una burrada pero es perfecto para grandes badeos y para agujeros de esos donde se te pierde el coche que es lo que solemos practicar, en carretera el comportamiento si montas unos buenisimos amortiguadores es bastante aceptable y eso que mi LR circula hasta a 140km/h, yo monte Olman delante y Monrroe detras los dos juegos de gas.



   
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(@Majapapas)
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Perdon un detalle los que tengais caja de cambios de 4 velocidades creo que no podeis tomar como referencia las cuñas que yo he montado, ya que mi coche monta la LT85 algo mas larga por lo tanto tiene cruzeta doble detras y cardan mas corto y reforzado.



   
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(@Oxiron-1)
Registrado: hace 21 años
Respuestas: 294
 

Buenos dias 8)
Hola Majapapas,Gracias por los detalles 😉 la verdad que el cacharrito se ve brutal al lado del patrol 😆
Osea a ver si no me he perdido, si pongo por ejemplo unas gemelas de 15 cm,¿no tendria que poner cuñas?¿ö que medida de gemeas seria,sin tener que poner las cuñas?
Y de los amortiguadores que e costaron los 4 :oops:(por aqui tambien se cambian pañales) sera poco a poco la modificacion:lol: ,las ruedas del dicovery puestas alreves con las insa, ¿te tocan sin tenner el coche levantado?.
Gracias de antemano 😉

8) Saludos Hippy 😈



   
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(@Baja-54)
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Perooooooooo 21.5 mm ¿de furaco a furaco? ❓ ❓



   
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(@Raymond)
Registrado: hace 21 años
Respuestas: 571
 

Una pregunta: Las gemelas traseras del 88" y las del 109" son iguales o, por el contrario, son más largas las del 109"??

Lo digo porque tengo la posibilidad de poner unas de 109". El problema es que tengo las ballestas traseras bastante vencidas (=estidadas) y no sé si sería efectivo para elevarlo un poquitín o si, símplemente, las gemelas quedarían más "tumbadas".
Qué opinais?
Gracias!



   
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(@rusbel)
Dr. LandRovero Registered
Registrado: hace 21 años
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Alvaro, PEGASO como tal ya no existemya que la compro otra marca italiana IVECO, lo motores eran propios de pegaso, para mi son los mejores camiones que han existido, ni mercedes ni volvos ni nada jejeje te lo dice un hjo y sobrino de camioneros que han pasado por mi casa , casi toda la gama de pegasos. Saludos



   
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(@eliminado-51)
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hosti digo yo que estas operaciones las haceis bosotros o bais al taller
pues yo no se si sabria camviar tan siquiera los amortiguadores y luego en un post vi el land de un colega levantao con dos gatos y me parecio algo arriesgao
meterse devajo habia que hablar un poco sobretodo los que sabeis de la seguridad de travajar en el landi digo yo saludos maragatos 😀 😀



   
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(@Majapapas)
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HIPPY,Con 15 cm seguramente no tendrias que poner cuñas aunque seguro notaras que vibra un poco el coche, los amotiguadores costaron 300 euros, y las cubiertas tocaban por todos lados puestas al reves con la altura de serie pero ojo tambien me tocaban puestas al derecho.

El Rycky, si de 21.5 de tornillo a tornillo.

Raymond, las gemelas del 109 creo que son tres centimetros mas altas y si ganarias altura.

MARAGATO, Yo es que soy mecanico por eso me lo hago yo todo si tuviera que meter las horas de taller que vale las modificaciones de mi cacharrito ya tendria un Humer totalmente equipado. jajajajajaja



   
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(@Baja-54)
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Y yo y yo :mrgreen:



   
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