Soluciones? ir a un desguace y buscar un coche con dirección asistida y le sacas todos los componentes

Ir a un desguace y buscar un coche con frenos de disco delanteros y te los llevas junto con las pinzas

Buscar en páginas inglesas un buen set de amortiguadores parabólicos

Los precios que marcan son la típica cosa que uno no sabe que pensar. Dudo que alguien en su sano juicio se gaste 6000 euros en esas tres mejoras, cuando por ese dinero te pudes comprar un fantástico todoterreno de segundamano con esas mejoras y otras 100 más. Me encantaría oir cuántos kits de esos han vendido los de Santana. 1? 2? no sería mejor ponerlos a precio de este planeta y forrarse a vender kits??

2000 euros por una dirécción hidraúlica.........  😮 😮 😮

a modo personal la conversion que citas a mi me costo en total 290 euros ( parabolicas, frenos de disco y direccion asistida completa)

A modo personal yo no compraria nada de eso a estanfi................ y menos las ballestas que no se sabra su procedencia.. Son cosas que no son abundantes en los desguaces pero con un poco de paciencia se encuentran y por menos dinero que el citado. Por que por esos 6000 euros ya te compras un defender o dos o tres 2500 o 3500

por 6000 tienes muchas opciones.
Habeis mirado en paddock?

Saludos
Jordi

Puestos a gastar preferiría una over antes que la dirección. Pero en ese sitio a lo mejor te piden 2 o 3 millones de euros por una.

Casi mejor que no  ::) ::)

Yo creo que la opción más barata sea enviarle un mail a Mike Brewer o Edd China de Wheeler Dealers y a ver si perdiendo ellos dinero me lo hacen. Yo creo que es tan probable que me digan que sí. Como que me compre unos kits con información incompleta, un marketing basado en la interposición de intermediarios a cada cual más desconocedor del producto y con una web y catálogos a medio hacer des de hace meses (al menos).

No sé me ha dado bajón, porque aunque estuviera en un muy insano juicio, no me lo puedo permitir.

En inglés: se te "quichán choudas las guenes de conprá" porque hay ninguna information de las cosas buenas que venden ni de los recambios de Santana que tienen. Ojo, que yo estoy muy acostumbrado al "internet", y es más una crítica constructiva.

No sé en que desguaces encontráis vosotros Santanas o Land Rover Series, pero en www.recambioverde.es, http://www.desguacecortes.es o http://www.desguacemalvarrosa.es/ pero no estaría mal hacer un censo, porque si me pongo a llamar por telefono uno por uno no sé que desguace va a tener un coche de hace tantos años y que se ven tan pocos ya por valencia (madrid, andalucía, es otra cosa).
yo me pondré a indagar peró imagino que o lo encuentro a través del foro (jjluna, olibeni, p.ej.) o milanuncios  y poco más.

lo del overdrive parece algo interesante para hacer autopista porque es muy ruidoso, aunque un 109 2 1/4 diesel con el over debe de ser capaz de llanear solamente sin viento, si ya en 4a se notan las pendientes.

existe algún coche que lo monte todo esto junto. ¿Un Cazorla o 6 cilindros? o un Santana 2500? El Mercurio? soy preguntón por novato.
pero lo que he leído es que el tema recambios de overdrive es chungo.

¿Que opináis del mismo kit de Heystee Autmotive?
Los gastos de envio no parecen exagerados y en total con overdrive cuesta unos 4600€ (o 3500 € sin overdrive):

SuperDrive Overdrive
- Currently not available -
Planned production in March/April 2014, more info about details of the kit will be added soon.

PVP: 1100 €
http://www.heystee-automotive.com/onlineshop/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=92

Parabolic Suspension System (Series 109 LWB)
[Level D]

Parabolic suspension system for Series 109 LWB

Complete Level D kit:

2 front springs (left + right)
2 rear springs
2 u-bolt axle sets
1 full PU bush kit

Please note:
- Pre-orders are now taken
- The minimum production batch is for 94% reached, we are waiting for a couple of orders more
- Expected date for delivery: Feb/March 2014
- The special price offer is only valid for pre-orders.
- No stock will remain, so only the pre-ordered sets are being made.

Available Options:
Shock absorvers:
- No
- 2 front + 2 rear = + 176 €

PVP = 750€ (si hubiera en stock), 600 € (como pre-order para fabricación expresa), + 176€ con amortiguadores
http://www.heystee-automotive.com/onlineshop/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=101{11}38

hay una galeria de imagenes disponible en el enlace de bajo

Disc brake system A (Land Rover Series - front)
[Full kit]

Complete kit to mount Defender rotor discs and calipers on the Series axle. The kit consists of:

- 2 swivel houses
- 2 wheel hubs
- 2 calipers ('Defender' ventilated type)
- 1 Brake Pad axle set + retainer kit
- 2 rotor discs ('Defender' ventilated type)
- All bolts and washers to mount the rotor disc and caliper.

The swivels and hubs are bare but all the original components fit onto and into them. There is no need for modification nor special parts. The Defender rotor disc (+bolts) and the Defender caliper (+pads and bolts), supplied in the kit can be mounted onto the swivels and hubs, All other are Series axle parts.

With the use of modified Defender stub axles and CV joints + V8 'Stage One' half shafts you can run the full time 4x4 gearbox set-up from the Defender, Discovery or Range Rover. If you are opting to go for this route please specify this with your order.

Please select the type of bearings and stub axles for your set-up from the below options:

NB: Please note that the drive flanges on the picture are the 5 bolt Defender units. All hubs will have the Series 6 bolt pattern.

1 kit weighs 40 Kg.
Shipping costs depend on your location.
Within the EU: Eur 55,00
Outside EU will be quoted separately, please contact us

Available Options:

Fitting Option:
- montar o no montar rodamientos

Wheel bearing (select type):
- old 1 big + 1 small (hasta 1980)
- new , 2 iguales (desde 1980)

PVP = 1275 € (+35 € con rodamientos)
en el enlace se puede ver una galeria de imagenes:
http://www.heystee-automotive.com/onlineshop/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=60{10}35{7}19

y por último dos tipos de dirección asistida:

TDZ Power Steering Front-end Kit
[FrontEnd Kit]

This power steering system is suitable for all Series Land Rovers. This kit can be used together with any LR PAS pump to suit individual requirements. Please contact us if you have a different engine and pump. Installing of the cylinder takes a couple of hours, if required, the vehicle can be returned into it's original state in a short time.

The system works by assisting the steering through a hydraulic cylinder. In the cylinder is a valve block that is controlled by the steering rod coming from the steering relay (and driver). Any movement made by the driver is followed by the valve which is controlling the hydraulic cylinder.

The valve is proportional so even the smallest movement is detected. In addition, the cylinder remains without pressure and fully movable when the valve is in the neutral position (driving straight ahead) allowing the forces from the wheels to feed back to the driver.

Only when the driver turns the steering wheel, and putting force into the steering system, the valve on the cylinder allows hydraulic pressure to built up in the cylinder, only then the movement is assisted by the hydraulic force. The more force the driver puts into the turning of the steering wheel the more the valve opens, increasing pressure in the cylinder and increasing the force on the wheels, however, when the driver turns the steering wheel in the opposite direction the valve closes and opens the other way, it relieves the pressure from the cylinder and allows to built up the hydraulic pressure back in to move the cylinder in the opposite way.

The complete kit consists of:
- 1 hydraulic cylinder (C35)
- 2 steering rods (11/16" x 16)
- 2 track rod ends (std LR)
- 1 chassis mounting bracket (LH & RH drive)

Shipping costs depend on your location.
Within the EU: Eur 20,-
Outside EU will be quoted separately, please contact us

PVP = 860 €
http://www.heystee-automotive.com/onlineshop/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_25&products_id=31

hay una galeria de imagenes disponible en el enlace de abajo

TDZ Power Steering System
[Complete kit]

This is a "bolt-on" power steering system for all 4 cylinder Series Land Rovers. This means that no drilling, grinding or welding is needed to install this system. Installing takes a couple of hours and, if required, the vehicle can be returned into it's original state in a short time.

The system works by assisting the steering through a hydraulic cylinder. In the cylinder is a valve block that is controlled by the steering rod coming from the steering relay (and driver). Any movement made by the driver is followed by the valve which is controlling the hydraulic cylinder.

The valve is proportional so even the smallest movement is detected. In addition, the cylinder remains without pressure and fully movable when the valve is in the neutral position (driving straight ahead) allowing the forces from the wheels to feed back to the driver.

Only when the driver turns the steering wheel, and putting force into the steering system, the valve on the cylinder allows hydraulic pressure to built up in the cylinder, only then the movement is assisted by the hydraulic force. The more force the driver puts into the turning of the steering wheel the more the valve opens, increasing pressure in the cylinder and increasing the force on the wheels, however, when the driver turns the steering wheel in the opposite direction the valve closes and opens the other way, it relieves the pressure from the cylinder and allows to built up the hydraulic pressure back in to move the cylinder in the opposite way.

The complete kit consists of:
- 1 hydraulic cylinder
- 1 hydraulic pump
- 1 reservoir
- 1 hydraulic hose set
- All brackets and fixings required to mount the system

In the pictures, left to right; complete kit, Military spec engine, Civil spec engine, cylinder mounted to the vehicle.

Because there are different types of 4 cylinder engines there are different mounting brackets for the pump. Below you find 4 different options for different engine types, please select the mounting you require when ordering the kit

Shipping costs depend on your location.
Within the EU: Eur 47,50
Outside EU will be quoted separately, please contact us

Available Options:

Kit composition:
completo o con menos piezas por -300€
Pump mounting:
- 4 cil civil LH
- 4 cil mil LH

PVP: 1345 €
http://www.heystee-automotive.com/onlineshop/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=30{9}34{1}31

Heystee un 10 en todo  🙂 🙂 🙂
Es un valor seguro.

Madre mia que locura de precios, vete a Oliva y por 500 leuros sales harto de piezas del amigo Olibeni, yo fui a por una bomba de freno y volvi con parabolicas, silentblocs , servo, pedal.... y todo por 150 leuros ;D ;D ;D ;D

Buenas tardes:

Si te sirve mi experiencia te diré que pagué por mi 88 súper 990 €. Tenía: caja de cambios de 5 velocidades, parabólicas, frenos de disco, dirección asistida... y además funcionaba.

Saludos
Javier

He encontrado otro kit de frenos de disco.
Esta vez es Australiano. El caso es que tiene varios land rovers largos, ex-militares y v8.
El hombre ( o mujer) de alias Cookey pues decidío hacerse un kit el mismo para su v8 con capacidad ampliada hasta 4.2 L y unos 250 cv, no le terminaban de gustar los tambores del v8 y se puso manos a la obra.
Obteniendo un sistema capaz de frenar un 109 de 80 km/h a 0 en 27 metros. (¡0.9 G de decelaración!)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/169784-series-disc-brake-conversion-i-did-my-way.html

24th February 2013, 11:38 AM
cookey cookey is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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Series disc brake conversion --- I did it my way
I only get to drive one of my (many) ex-army Land Rovers for any considerable distance once every month or so. Without fail, every time I do I am reminded how the brakes are so antiquated, especially compared to more modern vehicles. For years I have been thinking to myself that I really should do something about improving the situation. I occasionally use a couple of these Landies for towing, which further reduces the braking ability. These thoughts usually consider updating the system to cope with current driving and traffic conditions. The main issues that I think need addressing are:

# Brake fade -- when descending long and/or steep declines, more so when towing.
# High maintenance -- constant need for adjustment and cleaning.
# Periodic wheel cylinder leakage.
# Intermittent pulling to either side, varying between hot and cold.
# Fluid bleeding issues with most models.
# Very poor braking when reversing.
# High cost of servicing and frequent overhaul.
# Noticeably lower braking ability than most other vehicles that I share the road with.

Having read various forums discussing this subject and looking at available kits on the market, I decided look into the feasibility of developing something myself. I have some fabricating skills and fortunately my workshop is equipped with a lathe and other machinery.
I recently purchased a Stage 1 V8, thinking it would be a good alternative to years of driving Falcon utes. In the usual manner of such things, I then decided to strip it down to a bare chassis and rebuild everything before putting it on the road. I was then offered, through a very good friend, the opportunity to acquire a Rangie engine that had been modified by increasing the capacity to 4.2 litres, along with a modified cam, ported heads and a motec engine management system. This combination reportedly produces in excess of 250 bhp with significantly enhanced torque.


In view of this being fitted to the Stage 1, my thoughts about increasing the braking ability assumed a higher priority.
My goals were to fit large ventilated rotors, with the most efficient calipers possible, increase the amount of boost available and address the balance between front / rear axles.
The other considerations were that I wanted to retain the ability to use standard Series wheels in addition to 15 inch aftermarket varieties, use easily obtainable parts at moderate cost, and do all the fabrication work myself.
Well, after countless hours sorting through various calipers and rotors, and several attempts to make what seemed like suitable combinations fit, only to find it not possible for one reason or another, I finally settled on a set up that I am happy with.
I found a little spare time over Xmas and fitted the whole set up to one of my ex-army Series 3's. At the same time, I renewed all the tie rod ends and lubricated the steering relay.




I then fitted a recond brake pedal box complete with a 8 inch dual diaphram booster, a new dual circuit Series 3 master cylinder and a dual brake circuit failure actuator.

To address brake balance and prevent rear wheel lock up, the rear wheel cylinders were reduced to a smaller diameter.
Over the past few weeks I have been bedding in the brakes and attending to a few other odds and ends while waiting for a Certifying Engineer to inspect the vehicle.
Well, the Engineer has finally driven and tested everything and has given his approval. He was actually very impressed with the stopping distances and pedal feel, and in the manner that this conversion was undertaken. He was able to repeatedly stop from 80 km/h without fade or pulling, the greatest distance being the first application in 27 metres. I am quite amazed that 7.50x16 Olympic Steelflex are capable of this result!! He also commented that he has been unable to match this result whilst testing both late model Patrols and Landcruisers.

Cookey

I have retained the original rear brake shoes and drums, however I have reduced the diameter of the rear wheel cylinders. Reason being, the front calipers have no self-energising ability and therefore require an increased hydraulic pressure to obtain the desired increased clamping force. When this increased pressure is applied to the rear brakes, there would be a tendency for the rear wheels to prematurely lock. By fitting cylinders of a smaller diameter, the force applying the rear shoes is reduced (pressure x area of pistons). The cylinder diameter must be reduced by the correct amount to have maximum rear wheel braking without lock up.

The caliper mounting brackets are a one piece design machined from a block of mild steel, which starts out at 32mm thickness.

This is machined in such a way as to provide the correct offset to mount the caliper centrally over the new rotor.


The finished mounting bracket looks like this.

The bracket is drilled on a jig to match the stub axle bolt pattern and drilled and tapped to mount the caliper.
The back of the hub is machined to take the rotor, which is mounted by 5 high tensile bolts.

The rotors are common and readily available, however some machining is required.
The 4 piston alloy calipers are superior in design to Land Rover/Range Rover types and are readily available, however some machining is required.
The hubs are standard Series 3 or Stage 1, however some machining is required.
To maintain the original wheel track and to provide clearance for the calipers, the centre of an original front brake drum is machined out and attached using the original retaining screws.

The original front brake hoses are retained.
The original brake pedal box is modified to accept a dual diaphram booster and new brake pipes made up to suit.


Cookey

Precios en AUS dollar (1000 AUD son 656 €):

After a great deal of thought and after liaison with my Accountant, Solicitor and Certifying Engineer, I have decided that this conversion will be offered for sale via 2 methods:

a) A complete drive-in / drive-out conversion, where all components are fitted by myself, in my workshop. This will include an Engineering Certificate for each individual vehicle. This will also include upgrading to Series 3 dual circuit pedal box, master cylinder, brake fail switch and the 8 inch dual diaphram booster, as well as fitting new rear wheel cylinders, regardless of model. SWB versions will also require the fitting of 11 inch rear brake assemblies. In other words, the brakes will be upgraded to exactly what is fitted to my series 3.

b) A complete pre-assembled kit of all components necessary to complete the conversion. Some items will be on an exchange basis. The exchanged items will have to be serviceable and of the correct type or a core charge will apply. The kit will include the front components pre-assembled, so that all that is required for fitting is to disconnect the front brake hoses, disconnect the tie rod ends, undo 6 bolts on either end of the axle housing, and bolt on the new assemblies. A pedal box will be included pre-fitted with the booster and master cylinder. The kit form will also be available as an outright purchase, without the need to exchange any items. I will be happy to supply a COPY of my Engineering Certificate to assist you with arranging your own certification.

Prices will vary somewhat depending on the model and if you have reclaimable items to exchange. A preliminary price guide appears below.

The high braking performance achieved through this conversion is due to the superior design of the calipers, the increased booster assistance, the overall brake balance and also the choice of disc pad compound. Any attempt to mix other components will upset the braking balance and performance. Anyone seriously considering upgrading their brakes is encouraged to come and drive my vehicle. The results are astonishing.

Cookey

Brake Conversion Pricing

Conversion parts

2 x reconditioned 4 piston aluminium calipers @ 225-00 $450-00
2 x modified 276mm vented rotors @ 125-00 $250-00
1 x premium grade disc pad set (Bendix Ultimate) @ 160-00 $160-00
2 x fabricated caliper mounting bracket @ 250-00 $500-00
2 x modified swivel housings (exchange – core charge $50 ea) @ 60-00 $120-00
2 x modified wheel hub (exchange – corecharge$50ea) @ 60-00 $120-00
2 x modified brake drum spacers (exchange – core charge $20 ea) @ 25-00 $ 50-00
1 x modified pedal box (series 3 type) (exchange – core charge $100) @ 100-00 $100-00
2 x caliper steel brake pipes @ 15-00 $ 30-00
1 x 8” dual diaphram booster @ 140-00 $140-00
2 x master cylinder extended steel brake pipes @ 25-00 $ 50-00
2 x rear wheel cylinder @ 40-00 $ 80-00
1 x various sundries, lock tabs, nuts, bolts, etc. @ 50-00 $ 50-00
2 x railco bush to bearing conversion @ 75-00 $150-00

Total $ 2250-00

Additional items if required

1 x brake master cylinder (dual circuit) $ 275-00
2 x wheel bearing and seal kit @ $90-00 $ 180-00
2 x swivel ball seals @ $35-00 $ 70-00
2 x lower swivel pin bearings @ $25-00 $ 50-00
2 x servicable stub axles @ $25-00 $ 50-00
2 x servicable swivel balls @ $95-00 $ 190-00
2 x servicable front axle shafts @ $95-00 $ 190-00
2 x serviceable rear brake drums @ $50-00 $ 100-00
1 x set rear brake shoes $ 85-00
1 x dual circuit pressure differential valve & switch (series 3 type) $ 100-00
1 x warning lamp modification (if required) $ 100-00

Fitting service

Series 2-2a $ 825-00
Series 3 (single circuit) $ 715-00
Series 3 (dual circuit) $ 550-00
Stage 1 V8 $ 550-00

Engineering Certificate $ 660-00

Note: all prices include GST where applicable

parece ser que tiene unas cuantas versiones mejoradas ya si sigues leyendo,

IMPRESIONANTE

Muy interesante, sí señor

Si intentas instalar eso en españa te toca pagar a un ingeniero mas dinero de lo que cuesta diseñar un coche nuevo, y si quieres un series con mejoras comprate un Irani de esos que acabaras antes XD

http://globalcarbrands.com/make/morattab-pazhan/index.html